It’s still months away from Christmas to be craving for ham. But I found myself in the mall one day, looking around the food courts and eateries for a quick bite. I was looking for something more filling than a bite to tide me over til the next meal; so I was very happy to stumble upon The Plaza inside the department store.

The Plaza has been around since the 1960′s and hails from a family of good eaters (second generation of the Aristocrat restaurant). Some of you out there may have hired them to cater for family parties; just as how my grandmother would get them for our reunions. The Plaza’s premium baked ham was a recipe developed by the Reyes family with their Swedish master chef Gosta Pettersson.

Their ham is tender, not too salty and thankfully, they separate the glaze as a sweet option. I’m not too fond of sweet Christmas ham and a drizzle of the glaze on top of the ham is just perfect for a pandesal sandwich. Today though, they have other sauce options apart from their original glaze but I didn’t pay too much attention to them. For a hearty eater like myself, P270 for 2 pandesal ham sandwiches with a can of soda is a real treat.

The Plaza Premium Baked Ham Website

Haven’t been to the Legazpi Sunday market in a while but had time to visit a couple weeks back. There were quite interesting items such as huge orbs of Himalayan pink rock salt and flaxseed crackers. Recycled wood furniture and beeswax balms. There were the regulars offering pugon roasted crispy pata and liempo. As well as those selling other pies and a stall featuring all types of curries. Quite international if you think about it.

I tried and got reacquainted with some of the items but what stood out was the Budbud Gourmet Suman stall. I know this has been around for several years in the Salcedo and Legazpi markets but was quite surprised by the number of variants they have now.

I think they’re most known for the Budbud Kabog; a cake roll made with millet. A little more firm than the usual suman with a nuttier flavor.

However, I prefer their regular budbud (or suman in Tagalog) using glutinous rice. I really don’t know how they get to make that incredibly chewy, smooth texture.  And it’s just mildly sweetened; almost neutral in flavor. Would’ve paired perfectly with those huge, sugary Thai mangoes they were selling in the adjacent booth. But enthusiastic owner Carl Van Hoven was kind enough to offer us a cup of his insanely good hot chocolate to try with the suman. And it was delicious; thick, frothy and creamy like a melted milk chocolate bar. Never mind that is was probably 40°C out and I was sweating like anything.

But of all the many innovative flavors at Budbud (and there are a few: mangga, tsokolate, saging, buko pandan, luya, biko etc…) I find I like the langka and ube langka variants the best.

The langka (jackfruit) sort of mellows down in terms of muskiness in the cooking process and turns into this sweet, almost caramel-like syrup. Melds beautifully with the sticky rice. Very aromatic.

And the ube-langka just incorporates another complex layer with that earthy addition of purple yam.

We had bought a couple dozen in various flavors and was advised to put them in the freezer as they’d (surprisingly) keep there for months. So now we have a modest stockpile of these rice cakes and just nuke them in the microwave for a minute or two if we want a sticky rice hit.

Budbud Gourmet Suman Facebook Page

Juan Carlos de Terry has and will always be an inspiration.  His cooking has created and elevated awareness for Spanish food and wine ever since he set foot in the country a few years ago. His regular menu at his various branches gives one a taste of Spanish favorites; while his much-awaited yearly food festivals have been an excellent source of what the various regions of Spain have to offer.  A true renaissance man, Juan Carlos de Terry, is not only a great chef, he also holds a doctorate in Oenology and is also an accomplished pianist.  Let us look into what makes him tick:

Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

I was born with the passion for cooking. At the age of four I always prepared my breakfast omelettes. However, I think I was influenced by my mother’s sense of cooking and cooking philosophy.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

La Cocina Completa, by María Mestayer de Echagüe, Marquesa de Parabere, Espasa-Calpe. Issued in Bilbao, Spain in 1932

What was your first job in the food/service business?

I started in wine production in the late 60′s. As owner of a food company I created a line of preserved food under my own brand FRUTERRY in Mexico. Recipes were developed in several countries. This happened in the 90′s.

What is the inspiration for the menu of Terry’s?

The challenge of creating, searching and looking for new ways in the use of traditional ingredients in full harmony and perfect balance.

What is your favorite item on the menu of Terry’s?

I have three: Nº 1 is the elegant oyster soup followed by the angel’s nest pasta and our chocolate marquise

Besides your own place, what’s your favorite restaurant in Manila?

The cuisine of Mark Aubrey (Champetre)

Which Restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, Spain

What junk food do you love?

Street sausages in Germany.

Is there a food you just can’t seem to enjoy?

Any ceviche using cilantro (coriander)

Just between us, what are your future plans?

New food creations. And, I am opening another branch of Terry’s Selection at McKinley Hill very soon.

Many Thanks to Cyrene De la Rosa for the photo.

Spherefication is the process of turning liquid into spheres surrounded by a thin, gel-like membrane.  Essentially like caviar; bursting in the mouth with liquid with a nudge of your tongue. Filled and flavored with such ingredients as olive oil, fruit juices and vegetable purees; “crafted caviar” was once only accessible to those willing to pay a princely sum for a full on molecular gastronomy feast.

But today these bubble tea places offer these things called bursting boba. They look like your average pearls but explode with fruit flavoured syrup in the mouth. We had gone into a Cobo milk tea branch one sweltering afternoon and I got myself a mango-peach green tea base (mild sugar) with passionfruit flavored boba. Delicious way to fend off the heat. I was spacing out while bursting the pearls one by one. Or one mouthful at a time. At P80 for a cup it’s quite the good deal. And it’s just really…fun.

Cobo Awesome Posibiliteas
Several outlets across the Metro

Cobo Facebook Page

A few nights ago, after a fun time at Jim Araneta’s Global Beer Exchange, A few of us decided to grab a bite to eat before heading home.  I was with C, Kitchyart and her friend M.  Kitchyart suggested that we go to a squid ball vendor who she has been frequently visiting along Makati Avenue.  I agreed immediately since I haven’t had fish balls or squid balls since I was in high school.

We found Mang Julie (short for Julius) across the Barrio Fiesta building.  He was selling squid balls for P3 each. These balls were larger than the usual fish balls but had a similar taste profile. Dipping sauces are the classic vinegar, sweet and, spicy. I remember during said high school days eating fish balls, although they were tastier and cheaper than the swill that passed for canteen food, was actually banned because of sanitary reasons.  Double dipping was de rigueur and thus, detrimental to ones health.

Nowadays, double dipping is not an issue anymore.  Squid balls are now served in either a disposable cup or plate, while sauces are spooned in gravy style.  My favorite sauce has always been a mixture of sweet and spicy while I prefer my squid balls to be “tostado” or well done.  I initially ordered 6 balls.  I took my first bite and it immediately evoked memories of Harry Gasser and Holden Caulfield.  It was just as I remember, deep fried chewy goodness and a sauce that had hints of brown sugar, cornstarch, banana ketchup and chilies.  Sarap!

If you are craving for a satisfying quick pick-me-up that does not break the bank, look no further.

Mang Julie’s Squid Ball Cart
Along Makati Avenue
Across Barrio Fiesta
Available Daily from 4pm till late.

There are quite a few steak houses in Manila but oddly enough, if you ask people where to get a good steak Mamou will definitely come up in that list. Odd because Mamou is not a steak house per se, but an establishment that serves comfort food done the Malou Fores way. Which is basically taking inspiration from all the good stuff from her travels and re-interpreting them. This dish, for example, is a clear nod to the Peter Luger style.

We were fortunate enough to be granted access to the kitchen of Mamou Too over at Rockwell; with the purpose of documenting how they cook their popular steaks. And so here we go:

The process starts out by heating a cast iron grill pan for about 5 minutes on full blast. An industrial stove probably has twice the BTU’s of your regular burner at home; I could feel the heat radiating from a shooting distance.

Good beef. Here we have a dry aged, angus ribeye USDA prime grade slab about 800g/28oz. With a thickness of about 1.5 inches. It was lightly seasoned with salt and pepper.

The beef is then seared quickly on both sides. The pan is so hot that the fat rendered from the steak combusts into flames.

After searing both sides the steak is then seared on the edges as well. They like that good crust all over. Meat and fire. What a primal sight.

The steak is then put in a baking pan, poured over with what they call “steak juice” (a mixture of olive oil and clarified butter), generously seasoned again with salt then thrown in a 450degree oven for about 3 to 4 minutes.

It’s then put in a face-melting-hot salamander broiler for a few seconds just to get more crusting.

Quickly sliced.

And then put on a serving platter with all the pan juice and topped with crispy steak bits.

Nice and pink on the insides. This was in between a medium and medium rare. Though I personally prefer it a little more blue, it was still excellent. I also love those burnt, crispy, salty edges that one gets from the perfect crusting. Delicious.

Mamou Too
R1/Lvl., Power Plant Mall, Rockwell Center
Makati City, Metro Manila
Philippines
(02) 822-6218

Mamou
Serendra, Bonifacio Global City
Taguig City, Metro Manila
Philippines
(02) 856-3569

*Many thanks to Malou Fores, MM Vazquez and Chef Rex for letting us share the experience.

When there were rumors about a famous homemade strawberry shortcake business closing down, I wasn’t too worried.

Bebe Rouge started out as a small kiosk inside New Hatchin Japanese Grocery in San Antonio Village, displaying delicately prepared cakes and pastries that looked too pretty to eat. I’ve made mental notes to order this cake for birthdays but I always misplace their contact details.

Last year, it was a delight to see that Bebe Rouge expanded to their own space just right next to New Hatchin; although it took them several months to open.  In the past couple of months (or maybe weeks), I took some friends and family to try their strawberry shortcake.

It’s a soft, pillowy taste of heaven.  A very light chiffon cake layered with white, rich, whipped cream and chunks of fresh strawberries in between.  Each slice is topped with a whole fresh strawberry.  This cake looks so perfect, it’s almost a sin to poke your fork into it. It’s so easy to finish off this cake in seconds; sometimes I feel a little selfish not wanting to share a piece with others.

The dining area should be open by now, it’s a great opportunity to get to try a slice or two. But trust me, this cake is a sure hit at any party.

Patisserie Bebe Rouge
7602 Sacred Heart St. cor Metropolitan Ave.,
San Antonio Village, Makati City
Telephone: (+632) 897.7207

*For cake orders, best to call and order at least 3 days in advance

I was quite saddened some months ago to hear that one of my favorite Japanese restaurants Sushi Kappo Kobiki-Cho had shut down.   The owners of the place had decided to transform it from a sushi bar to a slightly more affordable venue that features a broader spectrum, now called Rikuseki An. (A Place of Comfort)

Aside from an A la Carte Menu, Rikuseki An has affordable lunch sets from P390 to P850 and dinner sets from P950.  They also have a couple of Omakase (Chef’s Choice) Kaiseki Dinner sets ranging from P2000 – P5000.  During a recent visit, my friend J and I decided to go middle of the road and have the Hino Omakase Kaiseki Dinner Set. (P3500)

We started with some little plates that included some Fried Ika (squid) Shao Mai, a bowl of Cold Silken Tofu topped with freshly grated Wasabi, Braised Iidako (Octopus) and a delicate bowl of Mozoku (Japanese Seaweed) soaked in Vinegar and served chilled. Standouts were the tender octopus and the seaweed.   Special mention must be given to the vinegar that was used with the Mozoku.  It showed perfect balance between tartness and nuance, much like the characteristics of a fine wine.

We then had some Tsubugai (Japanese Whelk) served in its shell and a Sashimi course that included Toro, Scallop and Botan Ebi (Japanese Prawn).  Both dishes exuded freshness and quality that only carefully selected, high-grade seafood can give you.
Our next two dishes, Butano Kakuni (Braised Hakinton Pork), and Grilled Managatsuo (Silver Pomfret/Butterfish) with Saikyo Shiro Miso was part of the old Kobiki-cho Kaiseki Menu.  As always both dishes were excellent.  The pork was as fall-off-the-bone tender and flavorful as I remember, while the fish was a model of subtlety as it should be.

For our fried course, we had Hotate to Kani No Hasame Shinjyu Age (Deep Fried Scallops Wrapped with King Crab).  It sounds impressive I know; unfortunately, it was underwhelming at best, as none of the flavors shone.  This was probably my least favorite.
A medium rare portion of Osaka A4 Saga Beef was our beef course.  The beef was buttery, marbled and did not need the accompanying  fresh wasabi and mustard.  As always though, the “umay’ factor for dishes like this is quite high because of its richness.

A bowl of Una Don (Grilled Unagi over Steamed Rice) served with Miso Soup was the last of our mains. I was quite full at this point and I only had a couple of bites of the Unagi.  From what I tasted though, it was another winner.  I just wish I had enough space in my tank to do it enough justice.

For dessert, we had a (1) Japanese Strawberry and a scoop of Matcha Ice Cream. As with most Kaiseki meals dessert is normally quite simple.  I feel that Matcha is the Speculoos of Japanese desserts as it has been done ad infinitum.  Thus, having only the strawberry suited me just fine, given my state of satiety.

Having reinvented itself, Rikuseki An is now more accessible to diners, given the more affordable pricing and choices.  Standards of quality of the food and service have remained top notch and the place gives off a peaceful, oasis-in-the-middle-of-the-city vibe.  I will definitely be back.

Rikuseki An
Gf GC Corporate Plaza
150 Legaspi Street,
Legaspi Village, Makati
Tel: (+632) 752.1280
Closed on Sundays

Pansit Batil Patung. Sounds so exotic. To me at least. But it’s a popular dish up in Tuguegarao and I have only recently understood why.

It’s primarily made of miki noodles cooked in this richly flavoured brown stock, piled with ground carabeef (carabao meat), chopped liver and crowned with a sunny side up. Here at Bruno’s, the freshness of the eggy noodles is evident; has that nice supple texture along with that slight alkalinity. Something special happens with the dish in that the starches from the miki, the broth and the fat from the beef sort of emulsify into this velvety gravy. It is heavy.

Which is why it’s traditionally served with a plate (really, a whole plate) of chopped onions that you mix with calamansi, spiced vinegar and soy sauce to make a refreshing relish. And you have a spoon of this with every bite of that pansit. It is essential. And never in my life did I imagine to eat so much raw onions before; but it really just works. In fact I had to refill my saucer of onions at some point. An egg-drop, brown soup is also served on the side.

sort of runny egg

But you don’t have to go all the way up to Tuguegarao to have this dish as one blessed soul opened a carinderia style joint in Quezon City serving pansit batil patung alone. “Regular”, “special” and “super” is noted on their menu but only refers to quantity of serving. Every option would have the same noodle, broth, beef and egg components. I had first opted for the extra chorizo topping just to shake things up a bit. I had the more Spanish style chorizo in mind though; they actually use a Chinese style lap cheong. Sliced thin and fried to a crisp. It made for those nice sweet bites in between the really thick noodles. But I didn’t order this extra on the next visit. If I had a trivial quibble, over a few times I had wished for the egg toppings to be a bit more runny. Can you just imagine the sauce that would make?

with chorizo topping

I have not eaten too many pansit batil patung in my life to opine if this is “the best” there is out there. I have yet to try versions with vegetables and crushed chicharon on top. But judging on these plates per se, I can say it’s delicious. Quite unusual and  unexpected. But welcome nonetheless and happy to see more regional type food popping up all over Manila.

Bruno’s Pansit Batil Patung
37 T. Gener St cor K1 St
Kamuning, Quezon City
Tel. (+63915) 378 7562
Open 7am to 7pm, closed Wednesdays

Coron is quite known for its abundant and inexpensive seafood. The wet market vendors are so used to packing ice chests filled with fresh fish and shellfish for tourists to take home. Some opt to take home other dried salted fish as dilis and tuyo.

But whenever you get yourself to Coron make sure to try the danggit lamayo. A Visayan favorite that has yet to gain popularity in Luzon. Like a cross between your regular danggit and a daing. Only the freshest fish ( rabbitfish) can be used to make these as it is only partially sun dried and not as heavily salted (as compared to the regular danggit). It is then marinated in vinegar, garlic and pepper. One then fries it in hot oil, making sure the head and fins are crispy. Every part of the fish is eaten. And because it is only partially dried, you get a fleshier texture; more meat. And the vinegar marinade gives it a delicious tang; you taste the fish but the garlic really comes through.

I don’t have big breakfasts too often but if you put danggit in front of me I wouldn’t give it a second thought. Served with sinangag and runny eggs, makes for a really flavorful breakfast experience. I had this danggit-silog combo everyday of my stay in Coron. And it really gave me fuel for all the swimming and hiking and snorkelling we did throughout the days. Well, maybe just up till lunch time.